FULL PITI
Mortgage Calculator

See your true monthly payment — principal, interest, taxes, insurance, HOA, and PMI. Add extras or switch to biweekly to see how fast you can pay it down.

1 Loan Details
2 Monthly Costs
* Auto-applied at 0.6% if down payment < 20%.
3 Pay It Down Faster
Biweekly = 26 half-payments/year (≈13 full monthly payments). Knocks years off the loan.
Total Monthly Payment
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Monthly Payment Split
Total
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Payment Breakdown
Principal & Interest$0
Property Tax$0
Home Insurance$0
HOA$0
PMI$0
Loan Summary
Loan Amount$0
Total Interest$0
Total Paid$0
Payoff Date
Savings with Extras
Interest Saved$0
Time Saved0 months
New Payoff Date
Amortization Schedule
Year Date Interest Principal Balance
Enter loan details to see your schedule.
Estimates only. Actual payment may vary based on lender, taxes, escrow, and insurance quotes.

Understanding Your Full Mortgage Payment

When most people think about a mortgage payment, they picture the loan itself: the principal you borrowed and the interest the bank charges. But the check you actually write each month usually covers four things, often called PITI: Principal, Interest, Taxes, and Insurance. If your down payment is below 20%, your lender will tack on private mortgage insurance (PMI), and if you're buying in a community with shared amenities, you'll also owe a homeowners association (HOA) fee. Our mortgage calculator includes all six pieces so the number you see is what you'll really pay, not a sticker price that surprises you at closing.

How the Math Works

The principal-and-interest portion of your payment uses the standard amortizing-loan formula:

M = P × [ r(1 + r)n ] / [ (1 + r)n − 1 ]

Where P is the loan amount (home price minus down payment), r is your monthly interest rate (annual rate ÷ 12), and n is the total number of monthly payments (years × 12). The other pieces are simpler: property tax and home insurance are annual figures divided by 12, HOA is already monthly, and PMI is calculated as a small percentage of the loan balance divided by 12.

What matters here is that your interest is front-loaded. In the early years of a 30-year loan, the vast majority of each payment goes to interest, not principal, which is why the amortization schedule on this page is worth scrolling through. Switch it to "Monthly" view and look at how slowly the balance moves in year one versus year twenty-five.

A Worked Example

Say you're buying a $400,000 home with $80,000 down (20%) at a 6.75% interest rate on a 30-year loan, with $4,800/year in property tax and $1,800/year in home insurance. Here's how the math shakes out:

  • Loan amount: $320,000
  • Principal & interest: roughly $2,076/month
  • Property tax: $400/month
  • Home insurance: $150/month
  • PMI: $0 (you're at 20% down, so it's waived)
  • Total monthly payment: about $2,626

Drop the down payment to $40,000 (10%) and two things happen: your loan jumps to $360,000, and PMI of roughly $180/month gets added on top. Your monthly cost climbs by close to $400, even though you "saved" $40,000 up front. This is one of the biggest decisions in homebuying and our calculator lets you flip between scenarios in seconds.

Paying It Down Faster: Biweekly & Extra Payments

The "Pay It Down Faster" card on the calculator isn't a gimmick. Small changes have outsized effects because of how interest compounds. Two common strategies:

Biweekly payments. Instead of paying once a month (12 payments per year), you pay half your monthly amount every two weeks. Because there are 52 weeks in a year, that works out to 26 half-payments, or the equivalent of 13 full monthly payments instead of 12. On a 30-year mortgage, that one extra payment per year typically shaves about 5-7 years off the loan and saves tens of thousands in interest. Confirm with your lender that they apply biweekly payments to principal as they arrive, not just hold them until the end of the month.

Extra principal payments. Adding even $100-$200 a month to your payment goes straight to the principal, which means it's not earning the bank interest for the next 30 years. Run the calculator with and without an extra payment and look at the "Interest Saved" number. Most people are surprised.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Forgetting taxes and insurance. A "$1,800/month mortgage" advertised by a lender is usually just principal and interest. Real PITI is often 25-40% higher.
  • Ignoring PMI. If you're putting less than 20% down, PMI is automatic and typically runs 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan per year. It eventually drops off, but only when your loan-to-value ratio hits 78-80%.
  • Confusing interest rate with APR. APR includes fees and is what you should compare across lenders.
  • Underestimating closing costs. Plan for 2-5% of the loan amount on top of your down payment.
  • Choosing 30 years on autopilot. A 15-year loan has a higher monthly payment but cuts total interest by more than half. Worth running both terms in the calculator.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need 20% down to buy a house?
No. Conventional loans allow as little as 3% down, FHA loans go to 3.5%, and VA and USDA loans can be 0% down for qualifying buyers. The 20% threshold matters because it lets you skip PMI, but waiting years to save it isn't always the right financial move, especially if home prices are rising faster than you can save.
When does PMI go away?
For conventional loans, lenders are required to automatically cancel PMI once your loan-to-value ratio reaches 78% based on the original purchase price. You can usually request cancellation earlier, at 80% LTV, if you're current on payments. FHA mortgage insurance works differently and often stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance.
Is a 15-year or 30-year mortgage better?
A 15-year mortgage typically has a lower interest rate and you'll pay roughly half the total interest over the life of the loan. The trade-off is a monthly payment that's about 40-50% higher. A 30-year gives you flexibility. You can always pay extra to mimic a 15-year, but you can't reduce a 15-year payment if money gets tight.
Should I pay points to lower my rate?
Points are upfront fees (typically 1% of the loan per point) that buy down your interest rate. They're worth it if you'll stay in the home long enough to recoup the cost, usually 5-7 years. If you might move or refinance sooner, skip them.
What credit score do I need for the best rate?
Lenders generally reserve their best rates for borrowers with credit scores of 740 or higher. You can qualify for a conventional mortgage with a score around 620, but rates and PMI premiums get noticeably more expensive below 700.

This calculator and information are for educational purposes only and don't constitute financial, tax, or legal advice. Always confirm specifics with a licensed mortgage professional before making a decision.

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