Down Payment Calculator

Cash Needed at Closing
$0.00
 

1Home Price

$

2Down Payment

%
 
FHA loans start at 3.5% down; conventional programs go as low as 3%. Twenty percent avoids PMI.

3Closing Costs

%
Closing costs commonly run 2–5% of the purchase price in the US — lender charges, title insurance, appraisal, and prepaid taxes and insurance.

Breakdown

Down payment$0.00
Loan amount$0.00
Estimated closing costs$0.00
Total cash needed at closing$0.00
Loan-to-value (LTV)
PMI likely required?
This calculator is for educational purposes and provides estimates only. Actual closing costs, loan programs, and PMI requirements vary by lender, location, and borrower profile. Not financial advice.

What Is a Down Payment Calculator?

The sticker price of a house is only half the story — what really determines whether you can buy is the cash you must bring to the closing table. A down payment calculator adds your down payment and estimated closing costs together, shows the loan amount you’d be financing, and reports your loan-to-value ratio so you know whether private mortgage insurance is likely to enter the picture. The CalcFinity version lets you enter the down payment either as a percentage of the price or as a fixed dollar amount — the toggle converts between the two automatically — and every figure updates live as you type.

How It Works

Enter the home price, choose how you want to specify the down payment, and set a closing-cost percentage. The calculator subtracts the down payment from the price to find your loan amount, and applies your closing-cost percentage to the purchase price to estimate fees like lender charges, title insurance, appraisal, and prepaid taxes and insurance. Closing costs commonly run 2–5% of the purchase price in the US, which is why 3% is the default.

The formulas

Cash you must bring to closing:

Total Cash Needed = Down Payment + (Price × Closing Cost %)

The loan you finance, and the ratio lenders price on:

Loan Amount = Price − Down Payment · LTV = Loan Amount ÷ Price × 100

Your loan-to-value ratio — the loan amount as a share of the price — is what lenders use to decide pricing and mortgage insurance requirements. When LTV is above 80% — meaning you put down less than 20% — conventional loans typically require private mortgage insurance (PMI) until you build enough equity. PMI isn’t part of your closing cash, but it raises your monthly payment, so it belongs in your affordability math.

Worked Example: 10% Down on a $400,000 Home

Consider a $400,000 home with 10% down and closing costs estimated at 3%. The down payment is $400,000 × 10% = $40,000.00, leaving a loan amount of $360,000.00. Closing costs come to $400,000 × 3% = $12,000.00.

Total cash needed at closing: $40,000 + $12,000 = $52,000.00. The LTV is $360,000 ÷ $400,000 = 90.0% — above the 80% threshold, so the calculator flags that PMI would typically apply until equity grows. These are the exact defaults the calculator loads with, so you can trace every number in the breakdown.

Choosing the Right Down Payment Size

Twenty percent down avoids PMI and buys a smaller loan, but it isn’t a requirement. Conventional programs accept as little as 3% down for qualified buyers, FHA loans start at 3.5%, and VA and USDA loans can go to zero down for eligible borrowers.

The trade-off is monthly cost. A smaller down payment means a bigger loan, PMI, and often a slightly higher rate. Run both scenarios through the calculator and compare the cash-at-closing difference against the monthly difference.

Resist emptying your savings to hit a round number. Lenders like to see reserves after closing, and new homeowners reliably face repair and moving costs in the first year. A slightly smaller down payment with an emergency fund intact is often the sturdier position.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The classic mistake is budgeting for the down payment alone and treating closing costs as a rounding error. On the $400,000 example, the fees add $12,000 — nearly a third as much as the 10% down payment itself — and buyers who discover that three weeks before closing end up scrambling for funds or borrowing against retirement accounts. Lenders also scrutinize where closing cash comes from: large deposits usually need to be “seasoned” in your account for about two months or documented with a gift letter, so moving money at the last minute can delay or derail approval even when the total is sufficient.

A second family of errors surrounds the 20% figure. Some buyers wait years to save a full 20% while prices climb faster than their savings, when a 10% down purchase with PMI — removable later at 80% LTV — would have cost less overall. Others swing the opposite way and put every dollar down, leaving no reserve for the furnace that fails in month three. And don’t forget the costs this calculator deliberately leaves out of cash-to-close: moving expenses, immediate repairs, and the first year’s larger utility bills all land in the same season as your closing check.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need 20% down to buy a house?

No. Conventional loans can go as low as 3% down, FHA starts at 3.5%, and VA/USDA offer zero-down options for eligible buyers. Twenty percent simply avoids PMI on conventional loans and lowers your monthly payment.

What exactly is PMI and when does it go away?

Private mortgage insurance protects the lender when your down payment is under 20%. On conventional loans you can typically request removal at 80% LTV based on the original value, and it must be cancelled automatically at 78% as you pay down the loan.

Are closing costs always 3% of the price?

No — 2–5% is the typical range, varying by state, lender, and whether you buy discount points. Your official Loan Estimate, provided within three business days of applying, replaces any rule of thumb.

Does earnest money count toward my down payment?

Yes. The earnest money deposit you make when your offer is accepted is credited at closing, reducing the remaining cash you owe — it’s a prepayment, not an extra fee.

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